Showing posts with label Missouri State Penitentiary. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Missouri State Penitentiary. Show all posts

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Whhoooooo, Scary!



Just in case you haven’t heard, the 175-year-old Missouri State Penitentiary is haunted!!!

Yeah! That’s what some people are saying. Just think of all the spooks that must inhabit those cold stone walls—all the unhappy deaths that happened there! When we took the tour of the prison, the guide pointed out that in the early years, no medical treatment was given to prisoners. And they were extremely overcrowded.

Sentences, even for horrible crimes, weren’t very long, since five years in the pen would usually kill a man. In addition to the dangers involved with hard labor, cholera and influenza swept through the prison population, and the dead were simply poked into the ground—who knows where? They think that a lot of these unmarked graves are in what became the prison baseball field, which is now an asphalt parking lot.

Plus, as I mentioned in my earlier post on the MSP, this prison was called “the bloodiest forty-seven acres in America,” due to the high incidence of violent crimes, which all-too-often took place in the antiquated halls that simply weren’t built for surveillance by security cameras.




Ghosts, the way the scenario typically goes, seem to be the souls of people who were deeply troubled in life, addicted, vengeful, or otherwise far too attached to something on this “plane” to fly off to wherever it is spooks are supposed to fly off to.

I guess that upon death, we’re all supposed to go directly to heaven or hell, right? (Does anyone believe in purgatory anymore? Can one’s survivors still buy his way out of purgatory?)

Honestly, I’m not quite sure how the notions of ghosts and spirits mesh with the various flavors of Christianity. I doubt many Christians are quite sure on this, either; aren’t you supposed to go to heaven or hell, and that’s it? Doesn’t the “ghost” stuff pretty much conflict with orthodox or traditional beliefs?

The idea of ghosts fits better in unorthodox or heterodox camps, including New Age spirituality (or whatever the current term for it is—a few years ago a friend told me that “New Age” isn’t “used” anymore; there’s a new label they’ve adopted—but sensing my skepticism, she stubbornly refused to tell me what it is, doggone it). In this thinking, earthbound spirits are explained in terms of the souls of dead people who haven’t yet “gone up to the light,” to get debriefed and wizened up, before being reincarnated back to earth for the next “soul lesson.”

Here’s an example. About twenty years ago, I attended a lecture (and demonstration!) by Edith Fiore, author of You Have Been Here Before and The Unquiet Dead. The latter volume is subtitled A Psychologist Treats Spirit Possession, and it had just been released when I saw her in about 1988. She called her work “clinical depossession,” but Dr. Fiore’s angle was not to wave crucifixes around and create a huge, distasteful, green-vomit spewing scene.

Instead, her work resembled multiple-personality “therapy,” which began like common hypnosis, only instead of speaking with the different “subpersonalities” of her client, she, as therapist, initiated conversations with any disembodied souls that had gotten “attached” to the soul of the poor cuss seated in the chair before her. In the course of these conversations, she sought to convince the disembodied spirits that they were in fact dead, and then to convince them to “go up to the light,” which is the New Age (or whatever it’s called now) version of “heaven.”

She was careful to distinguish between her work—which sought to free the souls of confused deceased persons so they could enter their true reward—from the exorcism of evil demons, which she considered beyond her range of expertise.




Do you believe all this stuff? Do you believe in ghosts? And how does that fit in with your other beliefs—with what is said in the Bible (or whatever your sacred text is) or with the instruction of your pastor, guru, or other spiritual advisor?

And if there is something ghostly going on, how do we “know” what we’ve seen is a ghost? Couldn’t it just as easily be a demonic spirit tricking us, or an angelic spirit (whose message simply isn’t getting across because we’re so frightened), or a leprechaun, or a space alien, or a manifestation of the Flying Spaghetti Monster, or someone from the future? Or a deity?

And how is it that ghosts can appear or not appear; make sounds sometimes and at others be silent; walk through solid walls, then later have enough physical presence to cause real things to move or crash to the floor? I mean, are ghosts physical, or not? Why do folks only see them at night? Why are ghosts so bad at hiding from us, that we can supposedly see them anyway? Or, if they wanted to be seen, then why don’t they just show themselves to us all, and be done with it? Why be so mysterious about it? Why do those TV shows about ghosts only get filmed in the dark, when cameras function best in the light?




If ghosts are so common, then why hasn’t there ever been any irrefutable evidence of their existence? Why can’t we weigh, measure, count, film, touch them empirically? If they’re trapped in certain houses, why can’t we also trap them in a box for study?

And without bona fide empirical evidence, how can we be so sure they exist and are not a product of our excited imaginations? How can we defend a belief in ghosts and yet dismiss other cultures’ disembodied spirit-beings as primitive, superstitious nonsense? All the evidence ever seems to amount to is vague, inconclusive images and personal, anecdotal, experiences. And, as one scientist recently pointed out, the plural of anecdote is not data.

I know I am much more inclined to believe in ghosts after I’ve seen a horror movie!

Thankfully, that wears off.




Anyway, the big news around here in Jeff City is that the old prison is haunted, and this, I assume, will be a boon for local tourism!

Already, there are YouTube videos being posted of suspicious, unexplained phenomena at MSP—one, for example, shows a fuzzy whitish “visual anomoly” drifting downward near the “gaurd tower.” Another records indistinct noises near the gas chamber that are identified for the viewer as “unidentified Native American man singing with drums.” My interpretation of the latter is that someone in the hood was booming his stereo, and that the stone walls of the prison were functioning as an amphitheater.

Honestly—and all snarkiness aside—if there are ghosts, then the MSP should be a good place to try looking for them, to try to detect patterns, to collect statistically significant data.

And if you’re interested in paranormal investigation, then you’re in luck! There are getting to be more and more opportunities!

The Jefferson City Convention and Visitors Bureau has been holding “ghost tours” of the old prison, including “Two-Hour Twilight Ghost Tours” and even some “Overnight Paranormal Investigations” that begin at 9 pm! They will also provide customized tours for you, I believe. So grab your night-vision cameras and proton packs—and skip the sleeping bags!

And if you lack the courage (or inclination) to go on one of these ghost hunts yourself, you can stay tuned to the “reality” TV series Ghost Hunters, which recently filmed an episode at the penitentiary. After spending, like, twenty-four hours in town, they’re sure to have gotten to the very bottom of it . . . right?

Hmmmm.




(Needless to say, no ghosts were harmed, or even irritated, in the writing of this post. Thanks to Sue for sharing some of her nifty, glowy Lomographic photos. All the silly blurry ones are, of course, mine.)

Saturday, June 18, 2011

We Went to Prison, and Then We Had Ice Cream (Part 1)

“Hey Martha! Get in here, there’s a new Op Op post, and it sounds crazy!”

I know you’re going, “Say wha-a-at?!” But honestly, this is the Jeff City tourist thing!




I haven’t got statistics to back me up, but I think I can safely say that the three top tourist attractions in Jefferson City are:

1. The State Capitol,
2. The Missouri State Penitentiary, and
3. Central Dairy Ice Cream.

Usually, in my blog, I try to highlight lesser-known but totally worthy places to visit—hole-in-the-wall restaurants, parks and hiking places, that sort of thing. But Saturday, Sue and I behaved like tourists in our own town. (We go to the capitol pretty often, so today I’m writing about the other two.)


Part 1: The Missouri State Penitentiary Tour


Last weekend was a festival marking the 175th anniversary of the Missouri State Penitentiary (MSP), which, since its closing in 2004, has become a huge tourist draw for the city. Check out the Jefferson City Convention and Visitors Bureau prison-tour website, here, for information, including how to sign up for a tour.




I have to admit, I’ve been reluctant to go “visit a prison.” The times I’ve been to San Francisco, for instance, Alcatraz has never made it onto my list of “things to see.” Nope. And I’ve never been one of those people who maintain that prison life must be “cushy.” I’ve actually visited people in prison, and I haven’t been inclined to consider a prison—even one that is closed—as “fun” (the way I overheard one lady describing it last weekend).






Although everyday life behind the walls certainly entailed lots of interesting (and humorous) stories, prisons, in the end, are grim, grim places. In the 1960s, MSP was called “the bloodiest 47 acres in America” on account of the murders and other violent crimes that were committed in the many dark halls and “blind spots” that security cameras couldn’t show.




But it’s history: American history, corrections history, social history, criminal history. If you’re not yet grasping the depth and scope of this, consider:

—The Missouri State Prison opened its doors 175 years ago—in 1836—the same month and year that the Alamo fell in Texas. (This is a hundred years before Alcatraz opened.) For decades, MSP was the only prison to serve the entire American frontier—so people convicted of crimes, say, in the goldfields of California, were hauled to MSP to serve their terms. (Learning these facts really made me start paying attention!)




—Many famous and infamous people were imprisoned at MSP during its 175 years of operation, including social activists and antiwar protesters Kate Richards O’Hare and Emma Goldman (during the years when the MSP held female as well as male prisoners).




Other inmates included Sonny Liston (who learned to box at MSP; a mural of him remains on the inside of the wall overlooking the prison yard), and Charles “Pretty Boy” Floyd.




A particularly infamous inmate was James Earl Ray, who, after several escape attempts, finally snuck out of MSP in a bakery delivery truck. You can see and even step inside a cell that he once occupied for a few months in Housing Unit 3, three months before his escape, and about a year before he assassinated Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.




—The tour ends with the prison’s gas chamber, where forty people received capital punishment. There are two chairs there, side by side (so that a pair of people convicted of the same crime could be killed simultaneously—as in the case of the infamous child kidnapper-murderers Carl Hall and Bonnie Heady).




The tour guides allow visitors go right in there and sit in the chairs. (Personally, I find that revolting and disrespectful, but that’s just my opinion. If you want to go and take a picture of yourself sitting and grinning in the chair, and use it as your “Facebook portrait,” don’t let me stop you.) But whatever your attitude, it is indeed a gripping experience to go into that small building with its superhigh ventilation chimney, and reflect on the subjects of murder and death.




—The oldest structure still standing at MSP is “A Hall,” a housing unit built in 1868, using convict labor and locally quarried stone. This hall remained in continual use until the MSP was closed in 2004. In the basement are original “dungeon” cells, where prisoners sentenced for extra punishment were locked up in complete darkness (the tour guides led us down there, closed the door, and turned off the lights for a while, just to give us a “taste”). During the days of segregation, this oldest housing unit was the one designated for African Americans.




—“Corrections” seems to be a growing industry in the United States. Because it remained in operation so long, MSP reflects America’s changing ideas about the treatment of criminals. For example, despite constant upgrades to A Hall, its architecture still reflects the “Auburn system” corrections style where prisoners were silenced, degraded, and humiliated in an effort to reform their characters. At least one cell’s entrance in this building was kept—for historical purposes—at its original height, showing what it was like when all prisoners were forced to stoop in order to go in and out.




—The different housing units reflect the evolution of prison architecture over 175 years. The fact that A Hall has the cells along the two outer walls, for instance, and the cells have windows, with a large open area down the middle of the building, reflects an older style of prison architecture. (They probably needed the windows in the early years, as there was originally no plumbing, heating, or cooling in the building.)




The more modern Housing Unit 3 has the big blocks of cells back to back in the center of the building, with big open spaces separating the cells from the exterior walls and their large banks of windows. In that housing unit, there are no individual cell windows to tempt prisoners to escape.




—The MSP was the scene of a huge riot in 1954, a catastrophic event that marked changing attitudes both outside and inside the walls. In the early years, convicts (at least, the well-behaved ones) were often permitted to work in the city, and many locals went into the prison to attend concerts, play baseball against the prison teams, and so on.

Historian Gary Kremer has pointed out that many of Jeff City’s most affluent houses were built along Capitol Avenue, just blocks away from the clink; how many rich people today would dream of building a mansion within walking distance of a prison? After the riot, however, townspeople and prisoners rarely interacted. Again—what a great amount of history you can learn here!




So: we did the prison tour; it cost twelve bucks, and the time went by very quickly. Our guide, like all the guides, worked at MSP for many years. All the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable about and personally involved with the place.




Sue took lots of neat photos. It is truly a fascinating tour—honestly, take it from me; I’ve never been very keen on visiting the prison, but now I see it’s completely worth it.




Another note: this place is deteriorating; the state owns it but naturally doesn’t have the funding or much incentive (so far) for its upkeep. Roofs are leaking; paint is peeling like crazy; when the prison closed in 2004, it was still in decent shape.




It’s too bad, since there are a lot of details that are being lost. Some prisoners had painted elaborate murals in their cells, for instance. And Sue found evidence of a “girly” photo taped on the wall beside a lower bunk:




If the economy were in good shape, maybe the MSP could become an official State Historic Site—or maybe even a National Historic Site—and receive funding for upkeep. Meanwhile, the local CVB is doing quite a bit to promote the prison tours.




If you are considering going on a tour, I suggest doing it now, as the deterioration is ongoing. See it now, before more of it falls apart, and while there are men and women with intimate knowledge of the prison who are leading these tours.


Part 2: Ice Cream!


Yes, we actually went out for ice cream after our prison tour! We’ll cover this in the next post—so stay tuned for the dessert!




(Do I need to say it at this point? The best pictures in this blog are from Sue! Thanks, Sue, for letting me share these!)